Paradise in Pucòn

I’m writing this on a bus heading South to Chiloe after leaving Pucòn where I have been for the last four days. It’s hard to think that just a week ago I was in Mendoza were I’d been sleeping with barely a sheet touching me as it was so hot to Pucòn which has been warm in the day but dropping to around 5 degrees at night time. Most people might complain of this but getting into a freezing dorm to snuggle under thick blankets is heaven to me! Coupled with everything I’ve done the last week days I’ve slept really well, and after a fairly hectic week of Mendoza, Valparaiso, Santiago to Pucòn in four days I needed it!

Pucòn is 750 km south of Santiago, and is a resort town for a plethora of outdoor activities. It’s on a beautiful lake with Volcán Villarrica just outside town. It’s coming to late spring here, so still relatively quiet, I hear by January and February the place is buzzing, so I think we timed our visit pretty well. I’d travelled down with the British couple from Santiago, we arrived on the night bus around 11ish, by one we’d checked in and had lunch so we decided to take some bikes out for a few hours. I hadn’t really been paying too much attention and had thought we were just going on a light cycle round town. Luckily they’d encouraged me to wear a helmet, as some of the route was off road single track through bushes and trees, and a lot of it on loose shale road that was pretty slippy in parts. Also quite a few steep incline and declines! I’ve not done loads of cycling in my life, until this summer when I bought a city bike on giving back my company car after leaving work. I really enjoyed my last two months in the UK cycling everywhere, but is was all pretty flat and easy. I actually think this was my first mountain bike I’ve ever been on??!! Anyway I didn’t come off, and the scenery was absolutely stunning. The goal of the ride was to reach some waterfalls. They were beautiful, the water was so clear; it was well worth the two hour cycle to reach them. The return leg was down a main road which we had though was going to be an easy way back, but the head wind was pretty full on! We took to cycling very close together an alternately who was at the front to break the wind. It was a great trip, all though a bit further then I’d banked on…40km.

That evening I joined a group who were heading up to one of the many hot springs in the area. It was a pretty cool setting walking down some steep steps into a valley with the river running past. There were six pools, you started at the bottom and worked your way back up to the top which was the hottest. I think it certainly helped my muscles recover from the bike ride. On our return an Asado was cranked up in the garden of the hostel, a pretty nice way to end my first day there!

Sunday I had a leisurely start, had lunch with a German girl in the town and wandered around a bit. In the afternoon I went Hydrospeeding. I have never heard of this before, it’s pretty hard to describe so here’s a link.Hydrospeeding .I’m not in it. In essence your in a full wetsuit with flippers on holding onto a pretty substantial foam float in a river where they also do white water rafting….so yes RAPIDS! In my group there were just five of us, two Dutch girls from my hostel and two Swiss lads. We had to follow our guide down the river to avoid getting pummelled on the rocks or ending up in the wrong currents. I can’t tell you how fun it was, I loved it! Some stretches were quite calm but we hit plenty of really decent rapids. There was one spot we could paddle back up stream behind a rock and then onto a rapid that was like a wave that you could surf/body board. I was easily the best in our group at it all, I’ll do it again if I come across it.

That night I went for dinner with a few of the girls from my hostel but I wasn’t feeling particularly well, I had a very early night as the next day day was Volcano day! There were nine is us from our hostel that were climbing the volcano we had to be up at 6.30 which these days for me is very early!!! I still was feeling a bit dodgy, and not really in the best way after the two previous days activities. I was half thinking I should delay it till the following day, one of the dutch girls had some Imodium so I went ahead with it. We were kitted up with wind proof jacket and trousers and hiking boots. We headed off and were at the foot of the Volcano climb by 7.30 at 1400 metres. There was an option to take a chairlift the first stint for an extra couple of £$, which with the way I was feeling I did. I was now in a group with just the two Dutch girls and an older Belgian guy. Long story short it was really really really hard. I don’t think I’ve ever done any real “hiking” in my life, and walking on snow/ice and escalating to 2847 metres was not easy at all. I’m not sure why I thought it would have been. I had a lot of chats with myself on the way up to get there, also helped by the guide giving me his ski poles to help walk, and then he took my daypack off me to. It wasn’t so much the muscle work as just trying to catch my breath the whole time. I did feel like a bit of a useless wimp but I got there! At the top the you can peer into the Volcano crater and depending on the lava levels and the smoke you may or may not see the lava. On our day the level was low and the smoke quite thick, but just wondering around it was unreal. And the views from the top were stunning, all though I don’t think the Sony cybershot point and shoot has really done it any justice…. The one thing that kept me going on the way up was the fact I knew that going down was going to be so fun…sledging!!! It was pretty mental, and probably a bit dangerous, but awesome fun! We just had the little plastic seat sledges and carved little paths through the snow. What had taken five hours to get up took less then an hour to get down… Again bit if borrowed video footage to show it. Volcano sledging

We returned to hostel aptly named “Paradise Pucòn”, were we had Chori Pan with homemade Salsa and ice tea. I spent the afternoon sunbathing on the beach by the lake, it felt so surreal to be lying in the sun that afternoon, when earlier that morning I was up a snow capped Volcano in full on gear. I had a final dinner with the British couple who were heading off the following morning.

Yesterday my last day was a day or much needed R&R, bit of trip planning and sunbathing. Dinner with the German girl and a few drinks back at the hostel before my early start this morning.

I’m sure that in part it’s down to timing, and if I was there in four weeks time I’d have a different opinion of the place as it gets busier, and the weather was perfect for my stay, but honestly I felt like I could live there…just beautiful!! And another fantastic hostel, were I felt like I was at home after five minutes. So thank you Pucòn and thank you Hostel Paradise Pucòn and the team for a truly great four days.

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Chile first stops!

After 11 weeks in Argentina I crossed the border last Wednesday to Chile from Mendoza to Valparaiso. This was another 9 hour bus journey, but the first one I’ve done by day. It was a pretty spectacular journey right through the Andes, and the border crossing is right at the top of mountains. The border crossing itself was pretty lengthy, as we were at the back of a que of several buses, it took three hours. I arrived in Valparaiso around 8, that evening I just had dinner somewhere local, and had the first bit of spicy food for about three months! Thursday was my only day in Valparaiso so I did a tour of the city with a British couple I’m travelling with. It was a great way to see the city, & hear quite a bit of the town’s history. We then carried on walking around, saw some street art and took a short boat ride around the port before catching a evening bus to Santiago. It was a fleeting visit, and if I can I will try and spend another day or so there when I’m back in Santiago in December. It’s visually a very stimulating town, with the hills, vernaculars, and brightly coloured houses. There’s also a lot of great fish restaurants that I didn’t get a chance to try.

Thursday evening we arrived in Santiago and took the metro to the hostel. First impressions of the city were its much more modern, clean, and European than any of the other cities I’ve visited so far. The metro was spotless, really fast and they had people in uniform looking to help you out. We stayed at a huge hostel, “Casa Roja”. I was a little dubious as so far I’ve chosen pretty small hostels which have all been great. This place was massive, but really well ran. It was on old building that has been converted, and they’ve done a great job. http://www.lacasaroja.cl/

Friday was our only day in Santiago, I’ll be back for a few more days in December so I wasn’t too concerned about not having more time there. In the afternoon we visited the museum “Memoria”. http://www.museodelamemoria.cl/ “The Museum of memory and human rights is a space designed to give visibility to the human rights violations committed by the State of Chile between 1973 and 1990; to dignify the victims and their families; and to stimulate reflection and debate on the importance of respect and tolerance, so that these never more recurrence.” The museum has been curated excellently, and if you are ever in Santiago I would highly recommend a visit.

I spent a few hours wondering the area, and saw loads more street art, which was pretty distinctive compared to Buenos Aires.

Friday night we joined the hostel’s huge Asado, before we boarded the midnight bus to Pucon 750 km South of Santiago. A very busy couple of days and it will be great to spend a good few days in one place!

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Cordoba and Mendoza

After my rocky rural weekend down in San Juan Valle de Fertil I headed back to a city-Cordoba.

Cordoba is Argentina’s second biggest city, but compared to BA felt very manageable. I stayed in hostel just two blocks from the main plaza and for the three days did not need to take a bus or taxi anywhere as everything was so central. Cordoba is the Cultural capital of the Americas, its steeped in history and has eight university’s. If I’m honest I wasn’t expecting too much in advance of my trip there but I really enjoyed my time there. The people were incredibly friendly, there was a lot to do in the very centre and I actually went to a few museums! One of the museums i went to was “the museum of memory”, set in a former detention/torture facility it’s a documentation and memorial to the dirty war and it’s victims. Whilst obviously not a cheery experience, it was very informative and touching.

I also took a tour of the National University of Cordoba, which was much more interesting then it sounds! It’s the oldest university in Argentina, founded by the Jesuits. The original exam taken by its students after nine years of studying was in very grand chamber, the exam was eight hours three days consecutively. The student sat in a pulpit the rest of the room was filled with professors. The student was grilled in Latin on philosophical debate. If after the three days the student passed he would leave by the front entrance and the whole town would celebrate for days. Only a few students passed every year. If they failed they left by the back entrance and were mobbed with rotten food and flour thrown at them. Nowadays this tradition is for those students that graduate, and on one night out we passed a few students who were receiving such attention! On my first afternoon there I bumped into three Brits I’d met in a hostel briefly in Salta, and spent the next few days and my time in Mendoza travelling with one of them. We had a couple of late nights at a small authentic Irish bar. I say authentic as the owner was Irish! I wouldn’t normally go to an Irish bar abroad as it feels very touristy, but as we were the only tourists in there it was ok. We hung out with some agricultural students and other locals, after a couple of weeks travelling it was good to have a few heavy nights again.

On Friday we left for Mendoza, but we had the whole day untill our night bus, so we headed out to Alta Gracia a small town thirty km south. It’s famous primarily for two things. A UNESCO heritage site of a Jesuit estancia of Parroquial Nuestra señora built from 1643-1762. And it also has one of the houses (now a museum to him) that Ernest”Che” Guevara had lived in as young boy into his adolescent years. Both were interesting and it was beautiful day. We left on the night bus to Mendoza. Full cama suite seats. Seats that recline 180 degrees with your own tv screen, wine with dinner. So far I’m loving these long distance bus journeys, but I know that Argentina is going to be the best of it!

In Mendoza I’d booked into a hostel on the recommendation of a girl I’d met, it was great! Highly recommend to anyone heading to Mendoza, Hostel Lao. Helpful and attentive staff, fast wifi, lovely garden, hammocks and small pool, great showers, very clean, and best breakfast I’ve had so far. It’s also the first hostel I’ve stayed in a six bed mixed dorm and it was fine. I’ve been easing my way in gradually to hostel life, and while I’ve definitely been lucky with some great places feel pretty accustomed life now. I know they’ll be some stinkers down the line……

Mendoza is a beautiful city, in part this is due to an earthquake in 1861 which levelled the city. In the rebuilding of the city the streets were built very wide to allow for falling debris and many plazas for evacuation points. It’s a city which you can enjoy just wondering around the streets without actually doing too much. On my first day there after a lunch and a walk I treated myself to a pedicure. I know it seems a bit extravagant on a travellers budget, but wearing flip flops every day is hardwork on the feet!

Saturday night we met up with the other British couple, and we headed up to the “strip”, had an okay dinner and a really fun night walking back at 6am with the birds twittering at as. Sunday most things were shut so we had an Asado with a couple of others from the hostel and just hangout in the garden. It’s so nice every now and again to have a day were you don’t really do anything! A proper lazy Sunday afternoon.

Monday was wine tour day! Mendoza region produces 70% of the countries wine. We went in a group of five and hired push bikes. We went to three Bodegas and a artisan Chocolate, Jam, condiment, Liquor family run shop. We had some ok, some not ok and some great wines. Again it was a really beautiful day, and cycling round was brilliant fun. In one place were their most expensive wine would retail at around £600 a bottle in a UK restaurant a few of us paid to have a glass of this for the equivalent of £7. It was very good indeed, and as I’ll never be able to afford that in the real world seemed well worth it!

Yesterday my last day was super hot at 33 degrees. I headed up to the San Martin park for a long walk around. It’s quite a view in the park of a lake with the Andes in the background! I really loved both cities, and in Mendoza I could have done more things like hiking and horseriding but it was great to have a few days just mooching and relaxing.

I’m writing this on a day bus crossing over from Mendoza through the Andes to Valparaiso in Chile before I start to head south for the next four weeks into Patagonia.

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