Following the jungle trek we arrived back in Taganga in the evening, we’d all been talking about how much we were looking forward to a good few drinks, but I think we were all in bed that first night fairly early…totally shattered! The next day I’d promised myself a total day of chilling and indulgence. Laundry, sunbathing and swimming in the hostel’s very nice pool and a massage were the only things I achieved. Most of our trekking group were staying at the same place and we all planned to head into the Tayrona national park the next day.
This is one of the Colombia’s Caribbean coastline biggest attractions, and all though its a bit of an effort to get there it’s totally worth it. An hour bus ride, and then an hour and half trek through jungle and along stunning beaches we arrived at Cabo de San Juan camp and hammock site. We had to wait till 2pm when we could book our hammocks for the night. They have a gazebo on top of a small hillock just off the beach with 16 hammocks, and then plenty of others and tents on the main beach. I was adamant about getting one of the top hammocks, for the location, view and breeze at night. When it came to booking in there was only one left so I ruthlessly took that and the others were down in the main camp. We were all very hot and sweaty and the first swim was more than welcome. A number of the beautiful beaches we’d passed on the walk to our camp area are too dangerous to swim in, and that’s one of the biggest draws of the place we stayed. Two lovely swimming beaches, unfortunately with the difficulty in getting there and the popularity of the place comes high prices. My hammock was $25000, £8.50 a night, it was more than any hostel I’d paid in Colombia. And food and drink were equally pricey. That night we had a pretty early night, and I headed off up to my hillock hammock. I’d read about and been forewarned by the chap at check-in about rats, and they were everywhere. That first night a couple next to me hadn’t been told, and had bought some food up into the area, the rats had managed to get into the bags making plenty of noise. After trying to separate the food bags from the rest of their stuff and the rats still tearing up the place the couple left. I made the slightly awkward walk to the toilet down the hill, across the beach to and through the camp during the middle of the night and found the couple sitting in the dining area waiting for dawn to leave, the rats had been just too much for them.
The following day, I originally woke just after five and grabbed a few early morning snaps. We spent the whole day on the beach, swimming and relaxing. It was another one of those paradise places of my trip, and my last bit of Caribbean action. That night we drunk our smuggled in rum, and wandered off up the beach to watch the stars and chat. The park has a strict zero tolerance on drugs, and all of a sudden we had two policeman shining torches in faces searching us. One of the girls had a tiny bit of weed on her that she’d managed to hide. Another girl had her credit card on her that they were accusing her of using to chop up lines of coke. After a couple of minutes, they calmed down and they asked if they could hang out with us as they were bored. We all started to head off back to the main camp and when I lifted up my flipflops I revealed unknowingly were the girl had hidden the weed in a fag pack. The mood changed heavily again, and as I was the only one who could speak Spanish had another few minutes of very panicky pleading whilst they threatened to call the local police armada to have us removed from the beach, pay a massive fine and leave the country. I managed to convince them that no weed had been smoked and the girl hadn’t realised she had it with her. They took the weed and we all walked back to the main camp, I wasn’t entirely sure were we stood yet, but I ushered two of the girls off (one of whom was a lawyer and didn’t need to be involved at all). When we got back got the cafe area the two police guys were all relaxed and insisted we had a few drinks with them and told us don’t worry about anything and everything was all “Tranquillo”… I explained how we didn’t feel very relaxed at all and were now really paranoid. They changed out of their uniform and obtained some free beers from one of the cafe waiters who joined us, and apparently we were out of the woods. After an hour I departed, and left my friend who spoke no Spanish to enjoy herself with the very policeman who’d confiscated her weed. It was a vey surreal night all in all, only topped by the sensation of rats running up and down me and over my face all night.
I still say it was worth the discomfort of the rats and the extortionate rate for the feeling of sleeping so near the ocean and the breeze. We were so lucky with the weather again and had no rain in the park, if we had there was a very good chance I’d have been soaked whilst sleeping. We had nearly the whole of the next day on the beach also before three of us left by boat. The forty minute boat ride has made it to the top of my most ludicrous boat rides of the trip so far, within two minutes the whole boat was soaked. My seat was a plastic five litre food tub, which did my increasingly painful back no good. The coastline was Jurassic, but there was no chance of photos with the spray. It was hilarious fun, and saved about two hours off the journey.
Back in Taganga we collected our bags from the hostel and headed to the neighbouring city of Santa Marta. Following two average nights sleep with the rats, I was adamant about a very quiet night in. That changed when we checked into our hostel and were accosted by a group heading out for the night to some salsa bars. How easily we are led sometimes! Luckily for my hangover the next day the hostel which was previously a cartel house had a huge swimming pool, and that’s were spent the whole day! My back was now seriously giving me grief and the usual painkillers were not working. The following day we briefly popped into town for a bit of wander. I replaced my fourth pair of flipflops and third pair of earphones, and we had a good local lunch of snapper.
I left my new bestie in Santa Marta that night and took the nightbus to San Gil. My back pain flared up to the max, and the bumpy twisty ride didn’t help. I fought back tears on a couple of occasions. Luckily I’d bumped into a French guy Fabien on the bus I’d met before who kindly helped me with my pack as we were headed to the same hotel. San Gil is half way between the coast and Bogota and is an adrenaline junkies haven. On arrival at our hostel the Aussie chap that runs it had a video playing demoing all the stuff we could do; rafting, paragliding, hydro speed, mountain biking, waterfall repelling and hiking. I only had two days here, and all though my back was bad I wasn’t go to miss out. That afternoon I had a decent nap to catch up on my sleep from the bus. Lying down I was comfortable, but getting up after was terrible, as was sitting.
The following morning with my French buddy we headed off to go paragliding. This was the first time I’d down this, and its a great place to do it up over the Chicamocha canyon. In my head I had this down as quite an extreme activity to do, but actually as soon as your airborne it’s incredibly peaceful. The sitting position wasn’t fantastic on my back, but ok. We climbed higher and higher and the views were spectacular. The chap I was with spun us around a few times, and them I felt pretty nauseas! We descended really fast spinning around, and I had to shut my eyes! We climbed back up high again before coming down and landing with no problems. We’d been up for about forty minutes and my buddy also felt really sick to. We both agreed it was awesome, glad we’d done it, but its not something we’d do again! The drive back my back pain had transferred into my thigh and calf and I enquired about seeing a Chiropracter back in town, but it was a bank holiday Monday and my options would only be a Witch doctor or a massage the following day. I had another siesta, and then four of us went for a local dinner of cheesy flat breads with toppings.
The next morning was rafting. The Rio Suarez is one of the best rivers in all South America for rafting, and we were really lucky as it had been shut up till a week before as it had been class VI (un-raftable) due to the amount of water. I’d met along my travels in Colombia several disappointed punters who’d come through the town not to be able to go. This was my second time rafting, after a very exhilarating ride in Costa Rica were my raft had flipped and I’d had a run in with some rocks and drank a lot of water! The Rio Suarez was ranked technically more challenging with more class Vs. The company we went with were extremely safe and we were only two rafts with a safety kayak. In Costa Rica we’d been about seven rafts. Our guide was fantastic, and we didn’t flip! The rapids were immense, but because of the added safety it didn’t feel as frenzied as last time and there seemed to be slightly larger gaps between rapids when we could jump in a float down river a bit. The two big Vs we went through we incredible, and how we didn’t come out is definitely down to the guide’s skills! Our final rapid was only a class II which they let us float down lying in the water, a bit like hydrospeed. I was really happy to have battled the back pain, and do rafting again. Unlike paragliding, that’s something I’d do again and again when the opportunity arises, all though I’ve been quite spoilt with the two rivers I ridden.
We got back into town just in time for the Colombia v Peru football match, they had a big screen up in the central plaza and the atmosphere was fantastic. I had bought a football shirt, but it was indecent to wear without a padded bra which I’d didn’t have. Colombia won, so the mood was good as I left the square for a massage I’d booked. I explained my bank pain to the male masseuse as best as I could and he set to work with a hot stone treatment concentrating on my lower back and the effected leg. I was slightly unconvinced when I turned round faceup bare breasted and he proceeded to massage my stomach and breasts. I googled it afterwards and apparently that’s normal in Colombia. It didn’t feel anything but professional, but I found it pretty hard not to giggle. The massage was decent and I was optimistic fir reduced pain for a while…..
San Gil had been on my list, since someone had told me about the things you could do there, and all though I wasn’t on my best form I have no regrets ticking that one off. How often am I going to get opportunities to do things like this again in my life, as I approach only two months left of my trip it’s going to be Yes to anything I can do.
I took the nightbus back to Bogota, the massage hasn’t worked and I was still in major pain. I arrived at 5am, and was checked in and back in bed by 6am. After a few extra Zs I dropped off my laundry and took breakfast on a roof terrace over a unusually sunny city. I walked round a fair bit, as walking like lying was the least painful. In bed early with my alarm set for 3.40 am, I was awake with pain by 2.30 and got up earlier then planned to get ready for the airport, and left at 4.20. I flew to Lima via Panama City, and both journeys sitting down were excruciating. Arriving back in Lima totally shattered and in agony by 2pm was not the frame of mind I needed to be in to start my 21 day tour of Peru’s highlands including Machu Pichuu…..
So that was my month in Colombia, so many travellers I’d met had really hyped the country up and I was not disappointed. Every place I visited was so very different, the highlands, the cities, the jungle, the beaches, the colonial towns. And within the country the physiology of the people varies so much from the Afro Caribbeans, the indigenous tribes of the jungle, the heavy set Spanish cowboys of Salento, the beautiful atypical city girls. The fruit was outstanding as expected, and after the somewhat mundane food of Central America the cuisine was far more interesting with a decent smattering of fish. I met far more British travellers in Colombia than any other place I’ve been, good in that you can’t beat British humour, but not so good for maintaining my Spanish. I’ve met a lot of people travelling, some I hang out with for an evening or a few days, and some a bit longer. Every now and again I’ve met someone that I’ve just clicked with and one of the girls from the jungle trek a young Australian Chelsea was someone I thought instantly would annoy the hell out of me, but actually I got on so well with. Maybe some of these people I will meet again, but most I won’t; but that’s half the fun of travelling make these very quick strong friendships even if its only for a few days or a few weeks…as they say down under….”too easy”.



















































































































































