Mexico | BexBAtoRio

After finally leaving DF behind I arrived in Oaxaca city. Definitely not a place to miss on my visit, after a first night in a nice but quiet hostel I changed to another with a bit more going on and met some really nice folks. I spent four nights in the city, and aside from one day trip out to the ruins of Monte Alban the other days were spent wondering the colourful streets, exploring the plazas, churches and enjoying the delights of the food markets for which Oaxaca is famous. Having raved about DF and its great metro system, it was an appreciated change to be able to go everywhere on foot. On one afternoon we came across a fiesta celebrating the municipal workers, this involved people taking turns dancing around with a wire framed animal on their backs which was alight with fireworks that exploded sporadically either into the crowd of the dancer was a bit slow on them. They also had the giant puppet dancers Mojigangas, which I’d seen north of DF in a small town. A pretty boisterous affair all in all!

Of the various food delights I tried in Oaxaca were Tlayudas, (huge tortillas filled with everything), crickets, (crunchy, chilli lime flavoured), different types of Mole, (I’m a sucker for the classic Negro, chocolate and cinnamon and slightly bitter flavoured), and my first taste of Tequilas Aunt Mezcal….not entirely convinced yet! Whilst it doesn’t sound I did an awful lot there, it was one of the places that you could just wander around, and then wander some more!

My next destination was Mazunte on the pacific coast, which was either a more comfortable twelve hour bus along main highways, or at a third of price & half the journey time a six hour minibus ride up over the hills/mountains otherwise known as the “Vomit Comet” as so many people puke on route. I’m not normally carsick or anything, but after googling reviews if this route I somewhat freaked myself out and took some travel pills before the journey. Actually took two, and then read I should only have taken one…the ten minutes before I got in the bus in the waiting room I’d nearly fallen into a demi-slurring coma….I had no problems with the journey…though I hear the scenery was apparently breathtaking!

On arrival Mazunte we tried to book into a place on the beach we’d been told about were you can sleep in swinging beds under the Mosquito nets looking up at the stairs…sounded very cool! The place didn’t have any available, so we decided on a dorm room for the night and we could get outside the next night. The lady kindly offered me and my travelling buddy a four bed dorm for just the two is us for no extra charge (£4 each). We paid and accepted the offer….and then saw the room…..it was the worst place I’ve stayed in yet! Mattresses off sun-loungers with no bedding or pillows, mosquito nets on the windows but a inch gap all the way round the door made them futile. Having all ready paid we stayed the night, but first thing in the morning headed out to find something better…and better we did! All though at three times the price, but it was worth it to a double bed each, mosquito nets, fans, private bathroom and a superb view of the Pacific.

So Mazunte…firstly it is a very beautiful small beach. Secondly it is the natural habitat for a large swarm of hippies. This is the first time I’ve really been able to witness them in their natural habitat. Of course you have to wait till midday before you see the first one, and the majority of them come down to the shore nearer the evening. On occasion we even got to see the very rare female covered breasted variety! They have attempted to follow certain human habits including playing musical instruments, but they have fallen short on this as they are naturally tone deaf. An initial amusement of one trying to play a tambourine will soon dissolve into annoyance. It’s also wise not to give them any additional attention, particularly relating to their primitive crafted macramé jewellery. Other interesting things you can witness them doing are drowning rituals, juggling, and playing with hoops. But again a word of warning, do not get to near for their smell can be quite pungent at times.

The ocean here was glorious to swim in, the temperature perfect! The waves at time were pretty challenging to leave the ocean. Once you we beyond the break it was very calm, but on a couple of occasions I timed coming out of the water in a series of pretty ferocious waves and got properly dragged under and around…only a bruised ego thankfully. On our last morning we took a boat tour in the hope of seeing sharks, rays, dolphins and turtles. We only saw turtles, and having just been to the Galapagos I was a bit nonplused, but the boat ride itself was a bit of an adventure as the waves were pretty big and the captain used the waves to surf on and the sensation of feeling the acceleration from the boat and wave power was cool!

We left Mazunte after three days and headed over to the large surf famous resort town of Puerto Escondido to meet another friend. We lucked out waiting for a bus on the highway and were picked up by a couple in a pickup truck, he was a taxi driver by trade and took us direct to our hostel which saved us a few quid and some time. We only had 24 hours there, but had a fun night in our hostel with another mate, and the following day chilled on the expansive beach, hoping to watch some decent surfers in action but didn’t see many. We set up base at a restaurant on the beach that had huge white beds and hammocks. Normally in Europe or the states you’d have to be ordering bottles of Grey Goose or the like to get use facilities like that. Here a few fruit juices and beers will suffice, it felt pretty decadent lying on a bed supping all day….but I’ve had a hard six months and deserved it! In fact I think that day may well have been my six months to the day I’d been away!

So after a quick shot of sun and sand we left on another night bus bound for San Cristobal, Chiapas….TBC

After the wonder of my Galapagos trip I spent a few nondescript days in Quito due to some very average weather and the fact I was exhausted from the trip. I arrived in Mexico City (DF) over two weeks ago, and have fallen in love with the country! I have spent some time in the city, a week in Cuernavaca and a weekend in Querétaro.

I stayed in the same hostel for two nights on three occasions now in DF and that hostel and location had been a large part of why I’ve taken to the city and country so much. StayinnBarefoot The hostel is only six months old, so everything is in great condition, super helpful friendly professional staff, in the heart of Condesa area, five minutes from metro stop, stylish design and a great little restaurant downstairs run by two great guys. Places like this are dangerous for travellers and I’ve stayed a little longer then planned. I’ve also met some really great people here.

There is so much to do and see within the city, and some days I was a little overwhelmed by the history, culture and museums. I think they way I’ve been dipping in and out of the city has made it a lot more manageable. Without sounding to much like lonely planet…highlights…..Zocalo and historic centre, Anthropology Museums, Frida Carlo museum, Palacio Belles Artes, Torre Latinoamericana, Chapultepec Park and woods, Condesa area. And a touristy but fun night out to “Lucho Libre” wrestling which was pure comedy!

I also visited the Teotihuacan archeological pyramid sites which was really impressive. On the way back we hid our cash and cameras as a previous fellow hostel stayer had been held up on the return journey, we were lucky and had no problems.

In my second week in Mexico I was incredibly lucky to have the use of a house in Cuernavaca that some friends own. An hour south of the city, its a pretty large city in itself but the centre and all the places of interest are very close together and I had a great day exploring the place. My highlight was the “House of Tom Brady” musuem which is more like a home rammed full of arts and crafts that was really very special. Including some works by Frida Carlo and Diego Rivera. I had also been recommend to check out a very nice restaurant by my friends, as I was on my own I just went for a drink on the Sunday afternoon, the rest if the patrons were very smart families and I felt a bit scruffy on the lawn surrounded by peacocks in my shorts and flipflops! But the maître d assured me I was fine with the ubiquitous “Mi casa es tu casa”, that I’m hearing everywhere in Mexico. Added to that they only charged me for one of my two “muy rico” piña coladas!

I had also met a lovely girl on my Galapagos trip who also lives in Cuernavaca, who took me out to the beautiful village of Tepoztlán, which sits against a dramatic rocky mountain outcrop. We climbed the top of this, which was pretty steep and again a bit if an altitude challenge at 4000m. We congratulated ourselves with some really delicious tacos, quesadillas, and gorditas in the food market. To say I’m a fan of the food here is an understatement! My friend Lia also took me out in Cuernavaca on the Saturday night, and again going places with someone local gave me the opportunity to go to places I wouldn’t have gone on my own, or with other travellers. Also discovered the delights of tamarind margaritas…..double thums up!

After my second stop back in DF I headed north out of the city to Querétaro to stay with some friends I’d met in Bariolche in Argentina for a few hours back in November. They were incredible, hosts, so friendly and accommodating! Their city centre is beautiful, they also took me to San Miguel de Allende and the worlds third tallest monolith at Bernal. Again experienced more food delights, and “Michelada”- beer with salt, lime and different spices and salsas….almost like a Bloody Mary mix with beer….trust me way better than it sounds! We finished Sunday night destroying some ropey tequila at a friends house which I paid for on the bus ride the following morning….

So my first two weeks in Mexico have been a definite hit! Food, people, beautiful cities and towns and a shed load of history and culture! Bring on the south which apparently just gets better…..