Not too surprisingly the day that followed the Inca Trail and subsequent revelry was non to productive. Myself and two of the girls camped out in a cafe with good wifi and chilled, chatted, chomped and caught up on photos, Facebook, blog etc. At 4pm we thought we should at least wonder around the beautiful city that is Cusco, we crossed the main plaza took two photos and ended up in another cafe for coffee and cake. A group dinner took us back to the first cafe in the evening, and that was the extent of my exploring of Cusco. But it was really great to just have a day with no plans, buses, packing or tours. And the three of us had just mooched like we would have on a lazy Sunday back in our own hometowns. It continues to amaze me just how quickly you can become such good friends traveling, and to be able to sit and not talk the whole time just comfortable with our group silence, and then the level of humour and inappropriate remarks we could make with each was a whole different scale! I might not see these girls again as they live continents away, it doesn’t deter from the genuine moments of comedy genius we’ve shared.
Cusco really is one of Peru’s gems, all though very touristy and pricey. It’s a big shame I didn’t have more time to explore the place and we all agreed an extra day in Cusco built into the itinerary would be appreciated. As it was we headed off the following morning for the rainforest. A thirty minute flight took us to Puerto Maldonaldo, hot and humid, arriving in ugg boots was a mistake! Two bus rides and we were on the river..not the Amazon as I’d thought before hand but Rio Tambopata.
The boat ride up river to the lodge was a couple of hours & enroute our jungle guides spotted for us red howler monkeys, cayman, macaws and the worlds largest rodent Capybara. Another Jackson whinge coming up; There was a girl in our group who hates rodents/scared of them. Firstly we had to endure her making silly faces and not being able to eat her dinner when we had guinea pig, (she knew we were ordering it so just move to the other end of the table and let us enjoy our cultural food experience), and then we saw these fascinating harmless vegetarian creatures grazing on the river banks, just because she was told they were a rodent she was making silly noises and faces. Get over it! She was also a celiac, (likely mother and I fully understand the dietary requirements and hardships), but don’t make a fuss at every meal and then when there’s a tasty biscuits, cake or bit of bread on offer have a bite or slice! I have a feeling that all sounds slightly intolerant; nevermind.
It was such a difference in surroundings from the highlands to the jungle, and when we arrived at our Eco lodge we were further blown away….Fancy!!! Candlit lit lodge bedrooms, onsite bar. This was way out of my normal traveler league, but I accustomed just fine.
We then had a welcome slide/power point introduction to the jungle, the fawna and flora..which was interesting but delivered way too slow allowing many childish interjecting jokes from the audience,(obviously nothing to do with me). After a quick dinner our grouped donned gumboots and we headed deep into the jungle. Well a hundred metre circumference to the lodge trail, but we saw loads of spiders including a HUGE tarantula intrigued out of it’s hole by a stick, some frogs and other insects. The sounds from the jungle at night are intoxicating, and for a few moments we stood with our lights off just listening…it’s pure magic.
Most of us slept well aside from the two boys who had to share with a bat that kept bumping into their mosquito nets. It was an early start for more jungle action at 6:30am with a boat trip upstream with more caymans, and then a four hour trek with a short paddle boat over a lake. Our group was really lucky and we observed a group of monkeys for twenty minutes, (but impossible to get photos), a beautiful bird from the quetzal family, kaleidoscopes of butterflies. But the real wow factor was the trees, from the spiky clad self protectors, the walking palms that move across the jungle floor searching for sunlight, the extremely phallic roots, the vine trees that have strangled the original trees and the almighty Ceiba trees. We also to tried terminates, which are by far the tastiest insect I’ve tried so far, way better than crickets or ants. Woody with a hint of turpentine!
Back at the ranch, sorry lodge a few of us cooled off on in a stream for a swim. Not the clearest water I’ve swam in, but super refreshing! All though two of the others were bitten by something in the water that drew a little blood?!.. A lazy afternoon with some local monkey watching in the trees, a solid two hour siesta whilst being eaten alive by Mosquitos! (Should have used the net!). Our final jungle action was an evening cayman spotting boat trip. The caymans were cool, as we’re the juveniles we found and saw. But the real highlight was floating downstream for ten minutes with no lights, just the jungle sounds and the starriest sky I’m professing to have ever seen! “Capture that moment and bank it.” I said to myself.
We had a few drinks after dinner scaring our rodent-phobic girl whilst rats ran around the rafters in the bar…hehe….
And then the next day one long travel slog; boat, bus, bus, plane, bus and Lima by 6pm! Interjected only by our last group illness; a lady had a bad stomach during the night and had failed to forcedly hydrate or feed herself so ended up fainting at the airport even though she knows full well she has insane high metabolism and has fainted before. No one knows your own body better than yourself, help yourself out before you inconvenience others…one of my many mottos!! An ambulance was called, which was empty and without a doctor or anything, but luckily one of my girls Simone, was a Melbourne Paramedic. She diagnosed the low blood pressure, got some fluid and sugar moving through the body and we all made the flight!
Despite tiredness we all made the effort for one final night out together in Lima for some food and drinks which ended up with me helping the elderly Irish couple order Macdonalds for them at 1am whilst they staggered to their table. Despite a few grey characters in the group all in all the whole tour had been much better from all aspects than I’d thought on day one. Our guide was fantastic, I made some great friends, and all though tiring and flat out it was a great tour. Peru like nearly every country I’ve been to is a place of contrast…the grey cosmopolitan metropolis of Lima, the stunning hiking and biking of Hauraz, the surfing Meccas of Huanchaco and Mancora, colonial beauty of Arequipa and Cusco, the Herritage of Puno and Titicaca, the step back in time of the remains of Inca existence in the Sacred Valley, the Inca Trail and Machu Pichhu..and in all corners of its diversity lies a different culinary treat from the finest ceviche, cuy, churros, alpaca, or chicken feet!
The following morning our tour was officially over but a number if us weren’t leaving Lima directly. We transferred to a hostel, wicked chilled boutique vibe! Hostal 511 Lima. Myself and Simone headed to one of the finest Ceviche restaurants in the area “La Mar” and had a very nice “Ladies what lunch” afternoon. Perked further by our second dish of sushi taking so long that it was free. Ceviche really is the food of the gods, and I’m all to aware that this is my last opportunity to get my teeth into before Argentina, Brazil and then home! After dark we headed to the park of fountains in the centre, I wasn’t sure what to expect and as the biggest fountain was closed I wast excepting much. Actually it was really impressive, ten different fountains of colours, music, routines and shapes. Lots of silly photo opps, and chances to get soaked if not careful!
The majority of the group left for the airport at 3am that night, and I had a slightly indulgent next day of haircut, pedicure, manicure and a stunning lunch at a French cafe. Old school Coq Au Vi n and Tarte Tatin…..exquisite!!
And today my final day I’ve not broken my Lima pattern of a third and even better restaurant, El Mercardo. Tiradito of Salmon, Sole and Tuna in a soy sesame ceviche. Followed by a lightly fried mix of octopus, prawn, calamari and fish. Desert Guanabana, Chirimoya and maracuya with caramel and cream. And one last Pisco Sour. There’s something deeply satisfying about eating out on your own in a good restaurant.
I feel I should defend my flash packing over the last few days, so here goes! The standard of restaurants I’ve eaten at the last few days back home would be setting me back about £70-100 a meal, here the most expensive one was £30. To get raw fish of this standard in the UK your searching pretty hard. Am I going to be back in Lima again, maybe…but probably not. If you ask someone from Lima what their city has to offer, aside from the culture and museums (of which most of it I experienced out in the field so to speak) the next thing they will rave about is their restaurants. So all I’ve done is sample the best of Lima. Also as from tomorrow I’m back in Argentina, and then Brazil were to eat in restaurants this standard is going to be UK prices. That also goes for my hair and nails yesterday which cost me £25 all in, in Buenos Aires to get all that done I’d be looking at £100, so actually I’ve saved myself money!
I’m now fully relaxed and recouped after the tour and ready for my final two months which will start and end in Buenos Aires with Brazil in the middle! Bring it on!
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Add on; I was in my taxi on the way to the airport last night in Lima stupidly thinking how lucky I’ve been so far with no major disasters when we a) hit terrible traffic and the journey to the airport took and hour and half not forty minutes and b) on checking in discovered that my ticket was not valid and had been refunded to flight centre having not been fully booked/closed out or something I didn’t understand entirely. I had to buy a last minute ticket for $500! Which I’d better be getting a refund on ASAP flight centre. I’m now sat in my hostel at 7am in Buenos Aires after three hours sleep waiting to check in at 1pm…..



































